Colorado Land Cruisers is a four-wheel drive club based out of Colorado Springs, Colorado, and sanctioned by Toyota Land Cruisers Association. We are organized to bring together Toyota owning families and individuals interested in exploring Colorado four-wheel drive trails.
Wow! Another month flew by already! Our trail runs for June will be to 21road near Grand Junction on June 5th and 6th. This should be an excellent trip. Next, is our annual trip to “Brighten the Sangres” in Westcliffe on the 18th and 19th, and the 20th. A camp out Sat night is planned if you are so inclined. We always have a great time there! I am even trying to bring back the pancake breakfast!!! No promises on that yet, but I still hope we have a good showing this year either way.
“Remember we’re all in this together, I’m pullin’ for ya!”
Andy “Minisrule” Johnson
President - CLC
Trail Run: Jenny Creek –
May 15, 2004
CLC’s next scheduled run will be to Jenny Creek, in the Boulder area. The meet / leave times are 7:00am / 7:30am, at the North location, McDonalds at N. Academy and Hwy 83. Kendall has “volunteered” to lead the group. Hope to see you there!
“Special” Tools &
Toyota’s & Accessories
When was the last time you started working on a project only to discover that you need a “special” tool in order to complete the task according to the book? When you are working on a leaking differential seal, you need to remove the nut on the pinion shaft. It is staked on, and tight. The book shows a fancy tool made to fit in the u-joint flange mounting holes with a long handle to keep it from turning. But lacking the tool and lacking a welder, a good old long handled pipe wrench is just the ticket. You only need one big enough to fit around the flange, and if you have one that big, one end will be on the ground and the flange is held firmly so you can remove the staked on pinion shaft nut. Sometimes there is no way around a “special” tool. When faced with this, several choices are available. You can get out your big checkbook and go buy the tool, so you’ll always have it, or maybe one of your CLC buds just might have one you can use. You could just decide the project is beyond your capability and take your rig to someone to do the job. (Sometimes this is a good thing to do) But, wait! there is one more idea to try – sometimes you can make a tool that will do the job just as well as the factory tool. I recently had this opportunity while working on a Worn winch. (I know, it’s a Warn Winch, but it is Worn.) The winch, an 8274, was leaking oil from the drive end of the cable drum. And it was ATF to boot! Warn specifies 30W non-detergent, so I guessed there was a problem. I was anxious to get into the gear case and check things out. With the winch perched on the truck tailgate, my mobile worktable, Andy helped with the 8274 tear down. I had picked up a gear case rebuild kit, and was surprised that it contained 3 plastic rings and one o-ring. Interesting to note, that the repair kit is for all serial numbers of the 8274. Once we got the gear case apart, we noted that all the parts in the gear case end looked good. The only worn part was the plastic bearing sleeve on the dry end of the cable drum. Back to the gear end of the winch. I was looking for massive ball or roller bearings on the cable drum, but no, only a thin plastic bearing is used in the case bore. I noticed that it was flush with the case, but didn’t think too much about it. I decided to see if I could find some information about Warn 8274’s, so, I googled, (googled – I went to www.google.com, and did a search on warn 8274) and, I found an article complete with about 80 digital photos on rebuilding an 8274. The pictures were pretty much what we were working on. As I was looking at the Warn parts kit, I decided to see what Warn had to say about installing the bearing. And there I saw it, the dreaded, “Use ‘special’ tool #123123 to seat the drum drive bearing. The tool will precisely seat the bearing 4.1mm down from the edge of the bearing bore.” Now this winch is just about as fundamental as you can get, but here I was stuck with needing this “special” tool the seat the bearing in the bore with a 4.1mm space. Hmmm, a 4.1mm space – then I knew why the thing leaked in the first place. At an earlier time someone had taken the winch apart, and didn’t or couldn’t read the instructions, or blew off the need for the special tool, and just pressed the bearing in flush with the bore and re-assembled the winch. What is so exotic about the 4.1mm space? Simple – that’s where the o-ring fits to seal the shaft! No space, no seal and oil leaks out. So, 4.1mm is important, or really, 4mm is the important part, since 0.1mm is only 0.00394” and 4mm is really close to 0.160”, so now I’m seeing what I need for my “special” tool. But first I need something that is just about 3 and 5/8” in diameter, since that is about what the inside diameter of the bearing bore is. So I look at the bearing and find that it isn’t worn at all, and looks like it’s new. Even though I have a nice new one, this one looks the same. If I remove it, I destroy it because I need a “special” puller with tiny inside bore fingers. Any way, I continue my search in the tool boxes, and in the garage looking at everything that is round. No luck from the garage. I then move to the kitchen, to the cupboard, where all the round cans live. Slowly, but surely, I move through the cans, testing each until I found the Cinderella can. And then it happened: Wow, a perfect fit! And Charlie Tuna lived in it! Chicken of the Sea to the rescue! Linda then noted that there was an old tuna can used for birdseed on the patio table, and it would work just as well as the one full of Charlie Tuna. A nice large worm clamp around my tuna fish can, set “precisely” at 4mm above the rim, and presto, I had my “special” tool. A light tap on a piece of wood on the back side of the can, and my plastic bearing was set precisely 4mm down from the case edge.
A problem solved. Now all we need to do is weld a mount on the front of my FJ40, run some wires and the old Warn will look just about right on the front of my ’72 FJ40.
C U on the trail,
Darryl
Trip Report: Carnage – April 27th
Come to CLC’s next meeting and get the report live from those that went. See Paul’s digital photos at www.coloradolandcruisers.org.
Next CLC Meeting ~ May
18, 2004 7:00PM
Mark your calendar for CLC’s next meeting, Liberty Toyota, North. Bring your ideas as we chart CLC’s direction in 2004, and beyond. See you there!
FOR SALE - FOR SALE -
FOR SALE
A full width rear seat for a FJ40. This ain’t no wussy 1 and ½ butt wide deal. Nooo. It’s a full size removable van seat with a fairly quick disconnect system. Give Vic Ramsey a call at (719) 439-9602. Vic is ready to deal on this one-of-a-kind seat.
Transmission and Transfer case for a FJ40. 3-speed floor shift. – ‘72/’73 FJ40. Complete with emergency brake drum. Acquired with parts from 2 other FJ’s. Transmission supposed to be good – seems to shift and turn OK. $300.00 or trade. Might consider good offer. Bob Mishmash (719) 564-7071. Email@ mndbmish@aculink.net
Edge juice w/ Attitude for Duramax. New in the box. Call Andy (719) 338-3384
I have a 1965 Toyota Land Cruiser. I bought it as a project car. I am in the military and I have been too busy to work on it. I bought it for $600. I would like to sell it for $400 obo. It has been completely disassembled. The frame is primed and ready to be painted. The body still has the original hardtop and doors. I have two engines for it and all the parts to put it together. I was wondering if anybody in your club would be interested in buying it from me. I am stationed at F.E. Warren Air Force Base in Cheyenne, Wyoming. You can contact me at (307)638-2901. My name is Josh. Thank-you.
tonycheree@hotmail.com - (a friends email?)